The Yarra Valley is one of the heavyweight regions for Australian Chardonnay, with finesse and length of flavour the hallmarks of the regional style. In the glass: Pale lemon green. On the nose: Apple, grapefruit, oatmeal and almond aromas. On the palate: Fine, elegant and poised yet with power and drive and a delicious core of white and yellow fruits. A savoury, almost salty layer adds complexity, velvety texture and racy acidity.

Toolangi is a state forest just outside Healesville that was devastated during Black Saturday. The excellent vineyards remain, and continue to produce wines of personality and place. The Chardonnay combines varietal characters of quince and crab apple with some delicious nutty oak nuances. Its great value.

A typically elegant Yarra Cabernet. The nose shows cassis and blackberry aromas with subtle cedary oak and the palate has a silky mouthfeel with sweet berry flavours and a lovely lingering finish.

Yering Station's Yarra Chardonnay displays citrus and subtle cashew notes on the nose with soft minerality and freshness. The palate has great texture and roundness with linear acidity with wonderful length and precision.

From the Yarra Valley comes this benchmark Pinot from one of the country's best regions for the variety. Sweet berry fruit and forest floor characters are balanced by depth and length of flavour.

Utterly delicious. Classic Strathbogie Riesling with a floral texture and a moorish finish. From a high elevation unirrigated vineyard, the vines are unrushed and once again delivered fruit of pure dimensions, stunning granite soil influence on the back palate.

Pale colour with a green tinge. Citrus, hazelnuts, brioche, complex and lifted aromas. Finesse and complexity on the palate, lively with good weight and balance.

A triumph in context of the vintage, this is undoubtedly a cool year wine, driven by lightly herbal pencil shavings aromatics and tobacco. Yet the palate is disarmingly juicy, giving this weight and drive, even if I think that oak is driving that mid-palate. On the whole surprisingly ripe and easy, if a bit raw and acidic through the finish. Overall impression is quality winemaking in a crap year (for reds at least).

This wine is grown, picked and made to be elegant in style, with lifted strawberry Pinot Noir aromas. It is dry, yet succulent wine with fresh acidity and fine texture. A lovely aperitif enjoyed on its own or with lighter foods such as antipasto, pâté or fresh summer seafood.