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Fragrant and energetic, the nose has an abundance of lycee, kiwifruit and blackcurrant with lime curd and lemon sherbet. Thai basil, sliced fennel, ginger and citrus blossom sit neatly in the background. A gentle entry leads to a delicately textured mid palate. Bursting lemon, lime and grapefruit dominate throughout with bright acidity, a slightly savoury line and a talc-like finish.

Attractive coppery pink in the glass. The nose has notes of musk, candied orange peel, fresh blood orange, sour cherry, fresh herbs and a slight Campari twist. Bitter-edged on the palate with that blood orange note, with musky pear, peach and strawberry fruit. It has a soft phenolic texture along with zesty tannins that add a pleasant grip. Finishes dry, clean and tangy. Engaging and moreish, with impressive finesse for this style of wine, and with a good volume of fresh fruit to balance the phenolic and savoury skinsy elements.

Good flesh here though; medium-bodied, good weight and sweep of acidity with a crispness to the finish 95, 96 clone Chardonnay from two vineyards, one in Red Hill and one in Tuerong. Barrel ferment, lees stirred. 20% MLF. 15% new French oak. 10 months in the barrel. Sam, Kaspar and Will pick the fruit on the up-curve (i.e. crux of flavour and freshness) bearing in mind the warmer side of the Mornington Peninsula is part of the equation here.

Le Stagiaire Chardonnay is drawn mostly from Garagistes Merricks vineyard, with the balance coming from Balnarring and Tuerong. Barney Flanders doesn't make these wines specifically for this labelall his ferments start out as potential single-vineyard wines, so the single-site wines are barrel selections, with the remaining wines bottled under Le Stagiaire. This provides some idea of how this label is able over-deliver, year in year out.

A lovely off white, copper hue to the wine. Not quite rose, but a really appealing blush. The nose has mandarin peel, fennel and a touch of funk and wet earth. Palate is racy, with cumquat and dried flower notes. Finishes with a vanilla note, and a savoury, phenolic bite. Theres skinsy and bunchy notes throughout, but they are in harmony with the pristine fruit and energy of a white wine from this cool, humid year.

Coldstream Hills has been consistently producing excellent Yarra Valley Chardonnay for years and if anything it keeps getting better. Stone fruit and grapefruit characters are supported by creamy nutty oak.

The aspiration of Oakridge LVS -- or Local Vineyard Series -- wines is to be outstanding expressions of single vineyards within the Yarra Valley. Local Vineyard Series wines enable wine lovers to compare and contrast the power of terroir and geography in winemaking. In essence, different grape varieties thrive in different soils, and Yarra Valley terroirs and altitudes vary widely. Oakridges expertise and understanding of the region allows viticulturists and winemakers to match a particular variety with a particular site -- with marvellous results. Almost all LVS wines are cellarworthy. The Willowlake Vineyard is just outside Gladysdale in Victorias Upper Yarra Valley. Planted in 1979 at an elevation 300 metres, the cool-grown Chardonnay here ranks with the regions very best. Add the skills of leading Chardonnay exponent David Bicknell and these hand-picked grapes become wines that express their variety and origin with consummate precision and flair.