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Jayden Ong working with some very fine Chardonnay from the upper Yarra Valley.

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Giant Steps Chardonnay is rich, fine, seamless, quartz-like. It's complex in an integrated way; no bells, whistles or alarms but plenty going on regardless. Grapefruit and white peach spent matches buried into the fruit, a smoky mineralogy. It turns the power on but is long and gorgeous.

Pacha Mama has put down roots, out in the sticks, amidst the vines of Yarra Glen. This Chardonnay celebrates its Yarra Valley home. It's vibrant, yet complex. There's a bit of fruit, burnt matchsticks mingle with melon and citrus. It's all about harmony and balance.

Scorpo produces another excellent example of Pinot Gris from the Mornington Peninsula. Lifted aromas of pear apricot and green apple lead into a palate rich and silky in texture, the flavours showing depth and complexity, the acidity in perfect balance.