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Fresh from Henschke's Littlehampton site in the Adelaide Hills, there are little squeaks of telltale bronze tones around the edges, then pears and almonds before a scoop of lychees and a mouth full of bright acids and herbal aromatics lolling around within its typical viscosity.

Rieslingfreak is indeed ‘a freak’, and not simply because of its rarity as an Australian winemaker focused on a single variety. A collection of wines, each given its own number to represent a different style, region or vineyard. The home of the No.14 is a single vineyard at Watervale in the Clare Valley, a region renowned for producing Riesling of richness and elegance. This wine may be enjoyed in its youth, but will also reward long-term cellaring.

Leonay is one of Australia's classic Rieslings. A wine of great power and elegance with tremendous varietal defintion it can be enjoyed in it's youth but invariably improves in the bottle for many years.

"Faintly pinkish hue, as expected given some skin contact winemaking with this variety, as appears to be the case here. True to type aromas of brown-skinned pear and red-skinned apple with a savoury element providing some complexity. Clean and crisp on the palate, the sweetish fruit is well balanced by the acidity and a textural astringency which sits comfortably." 92 points, James Halliday Wine Companion, August 2017.

"Whole bunch-pressed, free-run juice. Has considerable grip and length, lemon, citrus and mineral banded together. Still a baby." 93 points, James Halliday Wine Companion, August 2016.

Deviation Road Winery produces exciting cool climate wines and this one is a stunner. Partial barrel fermentation has added texture and depth to the sweet floral and pear characters. Silky body, mouth-filling and balanced.

The estate today known as Crabtree Watervale Wines was originally founded in 1849 and was originally named “Pomona”, a well respected orchard during the late 1800’s growing apples, plums, pears and currants. Over the last century or so, the fruit trees were replaced with vines and contemporary lovers of quality Clare Valley wine can taste the rewards. From vines up to 40 years old in Watervale, this is classic Clare: lemon zest, limes and a hint of jasmine on the nose, with juicy concentrated citrus flavours. The Crabtree Riesling is finely textured and certainly overdelivers on value.