The house of Besserat de Bellefon was founded in 1843 near Ay in Champagne, and is now based in Epernay. The hallmark of the house is the lower than normal pressure that the wine is kept at under cork. This lower than normal pressure does not reduce the effervescence, but softens it, allowing the wine to partner better with food. Aspect: Deep, intense yellow Bouquet: Citrus, confits, honey, sweet spice, panettone, praline Palate: Generous freshness, opulence, purity, natural, exceptional Assemblage : Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier.

This Peper-Heidsieck 2006 Vintage Brut is an elegantly charming wine. With aromas of dried fruits, hints of red and black fruits and warm spices, it is intense and enticing on the nose. A densely structured wine, it has generous fruits on the palate with a touch of smoked tea and toasted almonds leading towards a lengthy finish.

EGLY-OURIET Les Vignes de Vrigny Premier Cru, Champagne

Disgorged November 2022. Les Longues Voyes translates as ‘the long way’, referring not only to the 25 kilometres that you need to travel from the Laherte estate to arrive at the vineyard but also to the wine’s extended aging: 18 months in barrel and a further 18-20 months in bottle. The fruit is sourced from a single hectare of biodynamic vines in Chamery, Montagne de Reims, owned by a good friend of Aurélien Laherte’s. The 35-year-old vines are rooted in clay and silt over a limestone base. The wine was made from a single four-tonne press of grapes, which fermented naturally and matured in old Clos des Epeneaux and Leroux barrels. There was no malolactic conversion, and the dosage was 4 g/L. So, the estate now has two vintage Blanc de Noirs released at the same time: Les Vignes d’Autrefois from Meunier and Les Longues Voyes from Pinot Noir. The first comes from a chalky subsoil and the second from limestone, and it is fascinating to compare the different structures that result. Fans of Pinot Noir on limestone should move to the front of the queue.

The acidity is firmer here than the Meunier Blanc de Noirs (Vignes d'Autrefois), with a chewy austerity typical of limestone in Champagne. Regardless, it is fine and poised on the palate with impressive balance, racy freshness and fine chalk-infused bitters that drive a long, sapid finish—an outstanding Blanc de Noirs.

Fermented, aged and released in the same magnum bottle, only fruit from 7 Grand Cru vineyards is used to craft a blend of equal parts Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which spends over 4 years ageing on lees plus 6 months post disgorgement. Further gentle ageing takes place until deemed ready for release by the Cellar Master. It displays a multitude of citrus, white and red fruits, linked by a common thread of minerality producing a mature complexity, elegance and length.