Fermented, aged and released in the same magnum bottle, only fruit from 7 Grand Cru vineyards is used to craft a blend of equal parts Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which spends over 4 years ageing on lees plus 6 months post disgorgement. Further gentle ageing takes place until deemed ready for release by the Cellar Master. It displays a multitude of citrus, white and red fruits, linked by a common thread of minerality producing a mature complexity, elegance and length.

Disgorged November 2022. Les Longues Voyes translates as ‘the long way’, referring not only to the 25 kilometres that you need to travel from the Laherte estate to arrive at the vineyard but also to the wine’s extended aging: 18 months in barrel and a further 18-20 months in bottle. The fruit is sourced from a single hectare of biodynamic vines in Chamery, Montagne de Reims, owned by a good friend of Aurélien Laherte’s. The 35-year-old vines are rooted in clay and silt over a limestone base. The wine was made from a single four-tonne press of grapes, which fermented naturally and matured in old Clos des Epeneaux and Leroux barrels. There was no malolactic conversion, and the dosage was 4 g/L. So, the estate now has two vintage Blanc de Noirs released at the same time: Les Vignes d’Autrefois from Meunier and Les Longues Voyes from Pinot Noir. The first comes from a chalky subsoil and the second from limestone, and it is fascinating to compare the different structures that result. Fans of Pinot Noir on limestone should move to the front of the queue.

The acidity is firmer here than the Meunier Blanc de Noirs (Vignes d'Autrefois), with a chewy austerity typical of limestone in Champagne. Regardless, it is fine and poised on the palate with impressive balance, racy freshness and fine chalk-infused bitters that drive a long, sapid finish—an outstanding Blanc de Noirs.

A pale-yellow hue with golden highlights enchants the eye. A bewitching bouquet of white flowers, with hawthorn and jasmine coming to the fore. On the palate a smooth, delicately buttery attack, this champagne reveals notes of white nectarines.

Chamapagne Rosé is a true delight to the senses and Billecart-Salmon rightly takes its place in the top echelon. A vibrant Salmon pink colour greets the glass, with a long, smooth, delicate, elegant and refined palate to follow. Without the price tag that others of this quality demand, this is a Champagne that all must enjoy at least once.

On the nose, it is autumnal and warm, with surprising aromas of praline and lightly toasted hazelnuts. On the palate, its incredible balance offers a firmness to be expected from great Champagne. The Charles Heidsieck Vintage 2005 is a wine of distinct character, from an exceptional vintage.