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Umamu Estate only releases their wines when theyve had time to develop in the bottle and this Sauvignon Blanc Semillon is drinking beautifully now. In the glass: Beautifully vibrant bright lemon with a still-youthful green tint. On the nose: Lifted mix of toast and honey development. On the palate: Rich and beautifully developed with a lovely warm core of buttered toast, preserved lemon and lemon curd in a terrifically textured, layered and complex wine. So remarkably fresh and complex.

Chateau Canon shows no shy and retiring character in 2010, set to a naturally ripe and high 15% alcohol. Though power and density is a motif in 2010, there is a surprising suppleness in this wine, born from central St-Emillion vineyards and the same family of wine as Chateau Rauzan-Segla of Margaux. Almost evenly split between Merlot and Cabernet Franc usually, it''s three quarters Merlot in 2010; the wine matures in oak barrel for 18 months, with around 70% of those offering new wood character. While dense and compact, there is a succulence to the wine that suggests cellaring to two decades would be apt.

Chateau Leoville-Poyferre''s reputation as a 2nd growth of note has been buoyed by the engagement of renowned consultant winemaker Michel Rolland, whose work has been an influence at the estate since the mid 1990s. Prior, the reputation had struggled until the 1970s and the arrival of Didier Cuvelier, whose labour has helped create a greater reputation, more befitting the Leoville name. The wine has increasingly become one of the finest modern examples of St-Julien, with a move towards later harvests, fuller body, deeper concentration and exceptional length of flavour. 2010 reinforces that Chateau Leoville-Poyferre is a St-Julien wine to relish and cellar for up to and beyond another 30-plus years.

From the smallest parcel of the Leoville estate, comes Chateau L?oville-Barton, a once mid-tier level 2nd Growth that has accelerated in quality and interest since the reinvigoration of current proprietor Anthony Barton in the mid 1980s. The rich, gravel-and-clay soils host a predominately Cabernet Sauvignon base of vines, though Merlot and Cabernet Franc also factor. New oak use is kept to around 50%, and the wines are notable for their purity yet power. 2010 is no exception, with a wine that drives with authority across the palate, while providing the baseline for a long time of pleasurable cellaring. Rightfully called one of the most exciting producers of St-Julien.

The old school of the UK wine market have long loved the wines of Chateau Talbot, and the 2010 would have them purring. Chateau Talbot is a producer that occupies a large (102 hectares) swathe of land under vine in Medoc and makes wines that are set to a more traditional style, including rich wood scents, firm tannins, some rustic charm and a cassis-meets-violet fruit profile. This is a superb release of the wine, reminscent of classic Talbots that are sinewy when young, but still approachable, and for enthusiasts, glorious with cellar time.

Château Pavie Decesse is a St. Emilion Grand Cru Classé property in the Côtes sub-district, considered the equal of its illustrious neighbour, Chateau Pavie. The origins of both can be traced back to ancient Roman times. The 3.5ha vineyard, on chalky, limestone and clay soils and contiguous with Pavie, is 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Following cold maceration, the Chateau wine is vinified in temperature-controlled oak vats. Malolactic fermentation takes place in French oak barrels. The wine is aged in 80% new oak for between 18 and 24 months, depending on vintage character. Production is small, around 650 dozen each year. The hedonistic Pavie Decesse style combines opulent, rich, sensuous textures with minerality, freshness and concentration. Due to its lush style Pavie Decesse drinks well young, yet does develop additional complexity with time in the cellar. Wine quality has been consistently excellent under the ownership, since 1997, of Gerard and Chantal Perse.

France's Bordeaux, is the spiritual home of the Cabernet family of grapes, which extends beyond Sauvignon and Franc to Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. If you love Margaret River Cabernet blends, or indeed the Merlot dominant reds of Hawkes Bay, NZ, then you must look at the wines upon which many of them have been modelled. This wine is Cabernet and Merlot, deep and rich, cassis and earthy cedar, structure and uncommon length - all hallmarks of Grand Cru Bordeaux.