The dried-mango and pineapple character is so delicious in this wine. It’s full-bodied and medium-sweet, with a pretty density and a fruity finish. Wonderful balance to this super Sauternes. This is a little in reserve now, with so much for the future.

In 2013 only 2500 cases will be made (half the production of the last few abundant years and a fraction of the production of Ch. d’Yquem), but the final blend is not decided until early summer. Each barrel shows its individual character, but all had in common an energy, focus, persistence, depth and precision that makes this one of the wines of the vintage. The ethereal quality that I consider the hallmark of a great Climens was already noticeable as was an intense perfumed fragrance, which is the hallmark of the 2013 vintage. 2013 Climens is a jewel in the making and though its subtle elegance will make this approachable young, it has decades of ageing and evolving ahead.

Intense aromas of crème brûlée, dried pineapple, and botrytis-kissed apricot fill the senses, accented by a hint of vanilla and blossom. The taste is profoundly rich and full-bodied, yet exquisitely fresh, delivering layers of honeyed pear, sweet spices, and a mineral complexity that extends into a seemingly endless, harmonious finish.