The Berthier family have been winegrowers for five generations, with Clement and Florian taking over the reins in 2012 to continue the family tradition. Clement is responsible for winemaking and sales, while Florian is focused on the vineyards. Located across the Loire River opposite Pouilly Fume, the terroir for this Sancerre comprises mainly of flint and limestone. This 100% Sauvignon Blanc is racy and expressive, with bright grapefruit, white flowers, and notes of struck flint. The palate opens up rich and full, finishing with a rich yet silky freshness.

In 2013 only 2500 cases will be made (half the production of the last few abundant years and a fraction of the production of Ch. d’Yquem), but the final blend is not decided until early summer. Each barrel shows its individual character, but all had in common an energy, focus, persistence, depth and precision that makes this one of the wines of the vintage. The ethereal quality that I consider the hallmark of a great Climens was already noticeable as was an intense perfumed fragrance, which is the hallmark of the 2013 vintage. 2013 Climens is a jewel in the making and though its subtle elegance will make this approachable young, it has decades of ageing and evolving ahead.