Deep Woods Hillside Chardonnay exhibits lifted nectarine and white blossom characters. A suggestion of cedar like oak frames the generous stone fruit characters and complex chipped shell minerality. The palate is clean and lively with tremendous depth of ripe stone-fruit flavour nuanced by cashew notes. Bright citrusy acidity ensures and long and seamless finish providing enhanced structure and length.

As Australian Chardonnay continues its re-emergence, Vasse Felix Heytesbury is firmly leading the charge with its complex, modern style that has seen the winemaking team take home a cabinet full of trophies and gold medals in recent years. 100% wild yeast fermented and matured in French oak for only nine months, there is a power and persistence that is unmistakable. A flavour cavalcade of matchstick, citrus, white peach and grapefruit alongside a subtle toasty, nutty aspect from the sublime oak regime. The finish of this remarkable example will leave you in no doubt to this wines pedigree and ageability. Sheer classic.

Capel Vale is family-owned and one of the pioneers of the West Australian wine industry, first planting vines in 1974. And the duck? A symbol of the native mountain ducks that inhabit the nearby Capel River. In the glass: Pale with green freshness.On the nose: Rich and nutty aromas with stonefruit, citrus and struck match. On the palate: Full and generous with complex development under juicy peach and tangy grapefruit. Lovely line and length due to precise acidity, and well-judged oak.

Notes of gunflint and citrus, further complexed with ripe stone fruits and understated oak result in a wineof great complexity and mineral drive.

The wine displays fresh green tinges on a pale straw colour. The nose exhibits aromas of fresh cut pear and honey dew melon with some zesty citric notes. There are no overt woody or buttery aromas with the primary fruit characters expressed with clarity and definition. The palate is fresh and lively with clean crisp acidity complementing the vibrant fruity flavours. The palate has very good extension and ends clean and bright. The Hay Shed Hill vineyard is situated on a picturesque property that was established as a group settlement farm for returned soldiers from the First World War. Known as Sussex Vale the property was originally a dairy farm. The current homestead, considerably renovated, still has much of the original Group Settlement look and feel. Vines were first planted in the early 1970s. In the late 1980s the vineyard was bought by the Morrison Family and the wine brand Hay Shed Hill was established taking its name from the local reference to the hay shed located on the property. The sister label, Pitchfork, was developed to complement the single vineyard Hay Shed Hill label. A series of ownership changes saw numerous alterations to labels, wine style and distribution until the current group of partners bought back the farm and the brand in late 2006 and returned to the original concept of producing wine with integrity that expresses the quality of the site.

The palate exudes fleshy primary fruits, layered with nutmeal, lemon butter and brioche. A chalky, mineral texture and fresh citrus acidity continues the bounce.

Pale yellow youthful green tinges, which I equate with quality young chardonnay. Aromatics are instantly very serious. Intense fruit nectarines and white peaches melding with lemon citrus beautiful French oak hovering just above the wine at the moment intense more than a cursory nod to Burgundy. The tiniest whiff of sulphides perfect for a wine of this age. When sipped, the wine shows its incredible intensity, no doubt derived from the very low yield.