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Many of us wine drinkers have a soft spot for Chablis. Its with great reason too, given our climate and affi nity with seafood. A little over two months ago, we were thrilled when this wine hit our shores for the first time following a selective buying trip. Once again, it showcased its undisputed quality and notoriety in our tasting sessions. Established in 1850, this small family owned domain is the proven choice of so many when it comes to great Chablis. The estate comprises a mere 45 hectares of vines scattered throughout the region, grown on the famous Kimmeridgian limestone soils. Textbook in expression and style, super fi ne and elegant, this 2013 has perfectly poised, piercing acidity. This drives superb length of flavour on the featherweight light palate. Is there a better oyster wine?

One of the rare Penfolds wines that is 100% single-regional, the Reserve Bin Chardonnay is sourced from super premium sites in the Adelaide Hills resulting in a fresh, mineral style that lies at the forefront of the modern Chardonnay style. A wine that will always be linked with 'White Grange', Penfolds Yattarna, it shows a palate of Granny Smith apples and lemon curd with a pure chalky texture.

This winery retains its cult status by continually producing wines of poise, class and adhering to strict biodynamic principals. The Bannockburn Chardonnay is at this stage pert and linear, with floral and citrus notes. It will take a little time for this little gem to begin to give up its secrets.

Margaret River icons, Leeuwin Estate, have produced a wine of true class here. A great finish to the vintage shows up here with aromas of cassis, redcurrant and chocolate. Sweet ripe fruit on the palate is well matched with toasty French oak and fine tannin.

A fresh fruit-forward earlier drinking style, the fruit for the Estate Chardonnay comes from the densely planted Leongatha vineyard. Matured in approximately 20% new oak, the Estate Chardonnay exhibits vibrant ripe citrus fruit with subtle underlying toasty oak.

A concentrated dark fruit spectrum with an abundance of ripe blackcurrants, cherries and a hint of cassis. Coffee bean, dark chocolate and black olives lie beneath. Subtle dustiness combines with a seductive violet lift, enhancing the varietal fragrance and increasing complexity. A dense and layered palate with incredible texture. The generosity of the palate is carefully laced with a fine and structural acid line. Dark cherries and currants weave through smokey and mocha notes, finishing with long tactile tannins.

FABIEN COCHE, Bourgogne Chardonnay Grandes Coutures