This 20ha vineyard was planted on red clay loam soil at Woori Yallock in 2001 by Lou Primavera, with whom Giant Steps has a long-standing grape-supply relationship. Pinot Noir (114, MV6 and G8V3 clones) grown here on the north and north east facing slopes at 230m is noted for its complex structure and pronounced perfume. The 114 and MV6 are fermented as whole bunches in open vats, while the G8V3 is destemmed, given a long cold-soak and fermented separately to enhance its aromatic contribution. All ferments use indigenous yeasts and the whole-bunch components are periodically foot-stomped to release additional juice. The wines are pressed to 228 litre, French barriques (about 8% new) for 11 months before blending and bottling without fining or filtration.

From the Vosne-Romanee end of Nuits-St-Georges. Red, spicy fruit, fresh and quite juicy. Under notes of earth and flowers. Chevillon-Chezeaux's Bousselots is always textured in the mouth and the 2017 is no exception. Combines elements of Nuits and Vosne very successfully.

Cool climate single vineyard origin: Derwent Valley Tasmania 42.6°SHandpicked on a fruit day after the harvest moonWhole bunch wild ferment with gentle pigeageMatured 12 months en seasoned demi-muidBasket pressed, bottled unfined and unfiltered with perfect natural balance

Subtle hints of menthol and wood toast can be found on the spicy liqueur-like aromas of plum, cherry and cassis. There is once again fine verve and delineation to the stony medium weight flavors that deliver very good length if less complexity on the very firmly structured finale. This may well surprise to the upside if it can add more depth with time in bottle, which it definitely needs. (Drink starting 2030)

JEAN-NOEL GAGNARD Cuvee L'Estimee , Chassagne-Montrachet