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As often happens with Calvert, the nose when young is slightly muted and more direct than exotic; pure and fine aromas, not bold and lush. The palate follows on accordingly, with clarity of fruit, roses and florals. Focussed, concentrated yet pure in the mid-palate, with its hallmark mineral texture, its firm but ultimately juicy on the finish. The vines are growing up and were seeing the puppy-fat turn to muscle.

Compelling and convincing, with florals, currants and blackberries, not too sweet; it has a savoury edge, with the oak seamlessly integrated. Perfectly ripe tannins with poise and presence ensure that this is lovely now, but will be more so in years to come.

WILLIAM DOWNIE Bull Swamp Pinot Noir, Baw Baw Shire

The wine is ruby red in colour. It displays notes of warm cherries and forest fruitsThe palate is rich, textural and integrated with notes of blackberry fruit. The addition of 10% Cabernet gives structure and richness. Enjoy now or cellar for up to 10 years.Fruit is entirely grown and hand-picked on the family estate vineyard in the Yarra Valley, Victoria. The wine has been aged in new larger oak format to give subtle structure to the wine.50 dozen Bottled August 2018

Here too there is a similar mentholated nose on the spiced plum, dark cherry and warm earth-suffused aromas that are trimmed in enough wood to mention. The delicious and energetic middle weight plus flavors display focused power on the moderately austere finish where a touch of dryness slowly emerges. I suspect that this will round out in time as the dryness is subtle. Drink 2028+.

Dont miss this rare chance to secure a magnificent wine from a top producer thats in seriously short supply. Made by an acclaimed winemaker at the top of their game, this is a slice of wine history you dont want to miss. Add it to your collection while you can.