Domaine Bernard Defaix has been family-run for four generations, with a long-held focus on expressing the unique identity of each Chablis cru. Bougros is one of the seven Chablis Grands Crus, lying on the western edge of the slope near the river, where the soils are shallow and rich in Kimmeridgian limestone. The domaine farms organically and harvests by hand. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel, with a proportion of older oak barrels used for ageing, lending texture without overt oak character. Each vintage of Bougros shows a firm mineral spine and a savoury, saline edge. The nose offers notes of preserved lemon, green apple, and oyster shell, while the palate brings tension and length, with citrus and chalky drive. Bernard’s sons, Sylvain and Didier, now lead the winemaking, continuing the estate’s work in vineyard-focused precision and restrained, site-led expression. This is a benchmark Grand Cru with a consistent record for age-worthiness and clarity.

Olivier Leflaive was co-manager of Domaine Leflaive until 1994 before withdrawing to concentrate on his own venture which he started in 1985. Today the domaine produces wine from some 65 appellations with 85% of the production being white wine. One of Burgundys most respected producers the estate produces a number of domaine wines from its own vineyards alongside its range of negocé bottlings. This Chardonnay is a wine with a fine aromatic intensity of almond, hazelnut, apple and a nice balance between smoothness and freshness on the palate.

PIERRE-YVES COLIN-MOREY, Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune blanc

Meursault-Blagny Cuvée du Myosotis 1er Cru Sourced from the commune of Blagny, legally classified within the confines of Meursault, this is a thrilling wine of strident length, latent power and an alloyed, ball bearing-like precision. It rolls through the mouth, staining the cheeks with riffs on apricot pith, candied lemon rind, dried mango and a toasted melody of assorted nuts. There is plenty of oak sitting on this, boding well for its procession into a long future in the cellar. A Meursault for the ages, in the hands of a master.