Ray Nadeson describes Ménage à Noir Pinot Noir as “Lethbridge-lite”; we prefer to think of it as the opening act to this producer’s impressive suite of Pinot Noirs. It’s a blend of sites, but the lion’s share (88%) comes from Jack and Lois Doeven’s cool site in Drumborg (Henty). This low-yielding vineyard with well-established vines was planted in schist soils in the 1980s. The balance of the fruit comes from Geelong. The destemmed fruit ferments in a 3,000-litre wooden fermenter with regular pumpovers. The wine then matures in a mixture of old and new (approximately 10%) French oak of various sizes (225, 300 and 2,500 litres). This is bright, fresh and vibrant with signature Lethbridge energy and raciness balanced nicely by ripe berry fruits, earthy spice and a crunchy, sappy, lasting finish. A real winner.