Bryan Martin has always had a soft spot for Italian grapes, and his latest Fiano makes it pretty clear why. Sourced from the sun-soaked Hilltops, just north of the Canberra District, this is a white wine with some real depth behind its good-time glow. Fiano’s naturally high acidity and gentle savoury edges play right into Bryan’s texture-focused winemaking style. It’s pressed straight to old puncheons for wild ferment and a long rest on lees, which gives the wine weight and detail without muting the freshness. Think white stone fruit, a flicker of lemon rind, maybe even a little almondy waxiness - all tied up with a saline snap that makes you want another sip. This isn’t a showy white, but it’s full of character. A little Mediterranean flair, made with care, and built for drinking any time: from sunny lunches to seafood dinners and everything in between.

Bryan Martin has been producing thought-provoking wines in Murrumbateman wine country since 2001. Their Estate vineyard is managed sustainably, focusing on soil health, and foregoing synthetic chemicals, herbicides, and fertilisers. Fruit is also sourced for their Regional Series from the surrounding Young, Hilltops & Canberra District regions. The 2022 Regional Sangiovese marks the 20th vintage producing this varietal, with fruit sourced primarily from the Hilltops region with a splash of Murrumbateman for elegance. After spending 3 weeks on skins as whole-berries, the wine is pressed to small 5 year old French oak casks for élevage, before being bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Zin-Zin Baby is Bryan Martin’s playful spin on Primitivo, sourced from a small, sun-soaked vineyard that gives naturally generous fruit. 2024 was all about keeping that richness in check – the grapes were picked on the earlier side, then given a gentle ferment to keep tannins supple and the wine fresh. It’s plush and dark-fruited, with blackberries, plums and a little spice, but there’s enough acidity to stop it from feeling heavy. The style is all about drinkability – full of flavour, not weighed down, and dangerously easy to pour another glass. Made in small quantities and with Bryan’s usual light touch, it’s Primitivo that’s more about energy than sheer power. Best enjoyed young while it’s bursting with fruit.

This Shiraz Viognier has aromas of spice, red fruit and cedar. It is very aromatic with the same spiced fruit flavour persisting throughout the palate.

Here, we have a wine of ample fragrance, texture and appeal. It’s perfumed with yellow florals, citrus and stone fruits and a nice, subtle background of savoury nuttiness. The components are well balanced, working in harmony to create a wine of fresh acidity and full, fleshy textures, making this a gastronomic delight. Consume as you would a Chardonnay—not too cold and in a generous glass.