RIPOSTE BY TIM KNAPPSTEIN The Katana Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills

An elegant and restrained cool-climate style Shaw & Smith M3 Chardonnay has been at the forefront of the modern Australian Chardonnay renaissance. Displaying notes of nectarine and citrus underpinned by crisp acidity, it evolves over time to reveal layers of toasty, mealy complexity.

This lovely Gentleman is back. A man of calm demeanor, strong preserve, intellectual thinking, polite yet meaningful speak and a good upbringing. A fighter for the cause of right with words, not guns.

GinGin. A clone from California, perhaps, but a wine with all of the hallmarks of the Jura. Golden to the eye with an open, slightly oxidative nose (think cashew nuts). Juniper berries and alpine wild flowers with a fresh, rounded texture. Born in the Piccadilly Valley not far from Swaby geographically, made identically in the winery, but ultimately continents apart stylistically. 100% Piccadilly Chardonnay, handpicked, wild-yeast fermentation, whole bunch pressed to barrel, some bâttonage, 10 months in 25% new French oak, unfiltered and unfined, only 50 dozen made.