Meursault-Blagny Cuvée du Myosotis 1er Cru Sourced from the commune of Blagny, legally classified within the confines of Meursault, this is a thrilling wine of strident length, latent power and an alloyed, ball bearing-like precision. It rolls through the mouth, staining the cheeks with riffs on apricot pith, candied lemon rind, dried mango and a toasted melody of assorted nuts. There is plenty of oak sitting on this, boding well for its procession into a long future in the cellar. A Meursault for the ages, in the hands of a master.

This is an outstanding example of a white Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru. Formerly planted with Pinot Noir, this plot was grubbed up in January 1988, after producing good yields for 45 years, and replanted with Chardonnay in 1990. This change illustrates Chassagne-Montrachet's shift towards white wines dating from the 1980s in the light of the strong worldwide demand for Chardonnay-based wines. Not all the plots in Chassagne Montrachet are suited to this grape variety, however, and every change must be made in conformity with the appellation laws (to ensure quality) and in full respect of the terroir and its uniqueness. Thus, Chardonnay was only planted in this vineyard after careful consideration, producing its first vintage of white wine in 1992.

Les Caillerets derives its name from the large number of pebbles ("cailloux") to be found in the local soil, this is white Burgundy at or near- its pinnacle.

There are many "lieux-dits" (or "named places") in the Morgeot appellation. Their wines may all be sold under their own names as long as the conditions of independent harvesting and vinification are met. If not, they are sold under the "Morgeot" name. This is how we used to produce a significant Morgeot wine until 2001, by grouping the grapes from the "Petit Clos" and "Chaume" lieux-dits, the latter also being called "La Boudriotte". The grapes from these 2 lieux-dits have been harvested and vinified separately since 2002, thus creating the Chassagne-Montrachet "La Boudriotte" appellation.

RIPOSTE BY TIM KNAPPSTEIN The Katana Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills