REICHSTRAT VON BUHL Grosses Gewachs Pechstein Riesling

Purity, drive, a vibrant quality that gives us pause. There is power that builds, a precise line that follows through to a remarkable length. This clone of riesling lends itself to a winemaking philosophy that utilises smaller bunches for greater fruit concentration, complexity and lift on the palate from extended lees maturation. Flavours in the apple spectrum with underlying power, full in the mid-palate with hints of creamy complexity and lingering white fruit intensity, its texture is layered, as the clone celebrates its unique qualities with the occasional surprise. For 40 years, Grosset have crushed and fermented various clones of riesling separately. These clonal components are typically blended or reunited according to the source vineyard, prior to bottling. Having a vineyard planted to a mix of clones has been shown to contribute to the consistency and complexity of the single vineyard rieslings. Four years ago, Jeffrey’s daughter Georgie suggested they bottle a few dozen of each riesling clone from different vineyards and taste each over time. One clone consistently expressed more concentration and persistence, but was less fruity. At the Rockwood vineyard (ACO certified organic), just one clone is planted on a strip of silty loam over red rock. The riesling berries and bunches are small. The clone is the one noted as exceptional. The fourth vintage of this single clone - 110 - riesling is as stunning as the previous releases - and subtley different from them. It's still sourced from the tiny plantings of the clone on the biodynamic Rockwood Vineyard. Georgie Grosset is still perfectly happy to remind her Dad that she suggested the clone was so different from the other Grosset rieslings that it needed to be bottled separately. Almost overwhelming, voluminous perfumes leap from the glass signifying that this is special. There's a generosity on the palate, too, expansive, even a touch dramatic, showing lemongrass and lemon drop flavours. There's a depth of flavour, a hint of herbs, perhaps coriander, cumin, sage giving depth to the limey flavours; a tingle on the mid-palate, and bright vibrant acidity which defines the finish.

At the foot of the majestic Schlossberg hill, in a setting of vines and roses, the Domaine Weinbach "wine stream", named after the small stream that crosses it, was built in 1612 by the Capuchin monks. Sold as national property during the French Revolution, the Estate was acquired in 1898 by the Faller brothers who passed it on to their son and nephew Théo. A great figure in the Alsatian vineyard and ardent promoter of its recognition as an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, Théo Faller works for the quality of Alsace wines and the development of their incomparable terroirs and grape varieties. In love with his property, he develops it, enlarges it and embellishes it. From 1979, his wife Colette and his daughters Catherine and Laurence demonstrated the same passion for the great wines of Alsace and the same unfailing attachment to quality. Since 2016, Catherine Faller has been running the Domaine with her sons Eddy and Théo. Primarily responsible for the Weinbach we know today, Catherine Faller’s mother, Colette Faller, was one of the legends of Alsatian wine. Sadly, Madame Faller passed away in early 2015 and, like her daughter Laurence and husband Théo before her, is now immortalised by a wine bearing her name. This comes from 50-60-year-old vines in the Bonnes Terres terroir, lower down on the Schlossberg slope, where the soils are deeper and sandier. The fruit here also tends to be picked a touch later. Accordingly, the register of flavours here (running from white flowers through to tropical fruits and citrus fruit zest) is more intense, yet the wine balances its power with great freshness and verve. Even though it comes entirely from Schlossberg, some of the vines fall outside the Grand Cru boundary, which is why it cannot be labelled as a Grand Cru. The domaine has now applied for Premier Cru status. But no matter, it certainly offers Grand Cru quality in the glass. Raised for 14 months in old oak casks, it’s statuesque and full of life, packed with the joie de vivre of citrus and stone fruits, salty minerals and a flicker of white flowers. The texture is generous yet stony and compact, and the palate glows with energy and tension with tingling rocky minerality and a nip of bite on the lingering, mouth-watering finish. Biodynamic.