A fresh lively Bordeaux blanc produced from Sauvignon and Semillon, the first vintage of Chateau Cos dEstournel Blanc was made 2005. The grapes are grown north of St. Estèphe, in the Jau-Dignac and Loirac regions. The terroir is a mix of sand, clay, small stones and limestone. The wine is fermented and aged in mostly one-year-old barrels to maintain maximum freshness. Made in small volumes.

Biodynamic. Together with its sister-in-arms Cuvée Edmond, Dix-Neuf is the antithesis of modern, ‘textbook’ Sancerre. This jaw-dropping Sancerre is drawn from the oldest vines in the Moussière vineyard (approximately 100 years of age), cropped at Grand Cru Burgundy-level yields (in fact the lower end of this range). The wine was fermented and raised in 2,000-litre, tronconique wooden tanks for 12 months before a spell in steel on lees. Only 500 cases per year get to see the light of day.

The Triolet blend, first produced at this vineyard in 1987, was inspired by the white wines of Graves, Bordeaux. Each variety is picked at optimum ripeness, and is usually fermented separately. The characteristics of optimum ripeness are different for each variety. We pick the Sauvignon blanc after the strong herbaceous flavours have disappeared, the Semillon when the acid is not too harsh, and the Muscadelle when the flavour intensity peaks.

The wine tastes remarkably good: concentrated, aromatic, and complex. The speed with which the grapes became concentrated preserved magnificent vivaciousness. The wines are truly brilliant.