Biodynamic. Together with its sister-in-arms Cuvée Edmond, Dix-Neuf is the antithesis of modern, ‘textbook’ Sancerre. This jaw-dropping Sancerre is drawn from the oldest vines in the Moussière vineyard (approximately 100 years of age), cropped at Grand Cru Burgundy-level yields (in fact the lower end of this range). The wine was fermented and raised in 2,000-litre, tronconique wooden tanks for 12 months before a spell in steel on lees. Only 500 cases per year get to see the light of day.

Umamu Estate only releases their wines when theyve had time to develop in the bottle and this Sauvignon Blanc Semillon is drinking beautifully now. In the glass: Beautifully vibrant bright lemon with a still-youthful green tint. On the nose: Lifted mix of toast and honey development. On the palate: Rich and beautifully developed with a lovely warm core of buttered toast, preserved lemon and lemon curd in a terrifically textured, layered and complex wine. So remarkably fresh and complex.

A prestigious 1er Cru Classé estate, Château Coutet is the oldest and largest property in Barsac. The name Coutet is derived from the Gascons word for knife and the estates wines are renowned for their fresh cutting acidity and crisp lively palate. A blend of Sémillon (75 5%), Sauvignon Blanc (23%) and Muscadelle (2%), the wines show beguiling aromas of citrus, tropical fruits, white flowers, honey and ginger, revealing more candied fruit, gingerbread notes with age. The wine is matured in oak barriques for 18 months.

The important Sauternes property Chateau Suduiraut lies alongside Chateau dYquem and was ranked 1er Cru in the Bordeaux classification of 1855. Suduiraut can boast a history going back to 1580 although in 1992 it joined a family of properties, including Chateau Pichon Baron in Pauillac and Chateau Petit Village in Pomerol, owned by the French insurance giant AXA. Suduiraut, noted for its finesse and subtle complexity, is one of a small group of Sauternes producers which have emerged as worthy rivals to their famous neighbour. The 200ha property has 92ha under vine, mostly on gravel, sand and clay soils.

Since 1984 Château Rieussec has been the Sauternes property of the Rothschild family, owners of Chateau Lafite. Rieussec, a neighbour of Chateau dYquem, had for generations been a leading producer and was ranked Premier Cru in 1855. Even so, under Rothschild ownership the property has been transformed, with new cellars and winery and far more rigorous grape selection (plus greater use of barrel fermentation and maturation) for the flagship Grand Vin. This has led to Rieussecs clear emergence as a rival to its famous neighbour. Chateau Rieussec is 90% Semillon, with minor contributions from Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. The property is 110ha with 68ha under vine.