Château Guiraud is a large Sauternes property that is the only 1er Cru Classé, with the exception of its illustrious neighbour Château d`Yquem, that is located within the commune of Sauternes itself. Guiraud's 85 hectares of vineyards are located on one of the hills above the village of Sauternes. They are planted with 65% Sémillon and 35% Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes are harvested in "tries" and the juice is then fermented in oak barrels. The wine is then aged in oak casks (50% new) for 2 years. Guiraud is a very ambitious property with aspirations to produce a wine that will one day rival d`Yquem. The wines are astonishingly rich, especially in light of the high proportion of Sauvignon Blanc in the blend, and are undoubtedly amongst the finest wines being produced in Sauternes today.

The important Sauternes property Chateau Suduiraut lies alongside Chateau dYquem and was ranked 1er Cru in the Bordeaux classification of 1855. Suduiraut can boast a history going back to 1580 although in 1992 it joined a family of properties, including Chateau Pichon Baron in Pauillac and Chateau Petit Village in Pomerol, owned by the French insurance giant AXA. Suduiraut, noted for its finesse and subtle complexity, is one of a small group of Sauternes producers which have emerged as worthy rivals to their famous neighbour. The 200ha property has 92ha under vine, mostly on gravel, sand and clay soils.

Chateau Doisy Daëne is a deuxième Cru Classé estate of Sauternes located in the Barsac appellation of Bordeaux. Managed by renowned white wine specialist Denis Dubourdieu, the estates sweet Sauternes wine is a fresh lively style with crystalline fruit purity underpinned racy acidity. A fully botrytised blend of Semillon with a minor component of Sauvignon Blanc, the grapes are picked over successive tries and gentle pressed, before undergoing vinification and maturation in one third new French oak barriques for 10 months.

Umamu Estate only releases their wines when theyve had time to develop in the bottle and this Sauvignon Blanc Semillon is drinking beautifully now. In the glass: Beautifully vibrant bright lemon with a still-youthful green tint. On the nose: Lifted mix of toast and honey development. On the palate: Rich and beautifully developed with a lovely warm core of buttered toast, preserved lemon and lemon curd in a terrifically textured, layered and complex wine. So remarkably fresh and complex.

The harvest began very early, on the 5th September, and lasted 9 weeks. This made is possible to reflect all the diversity of a year in which both flowering and veraison were very spread out. Picking began especially early at Yquem in 2014. Some 25% of the crop was brought in before the 15th of September, providing a rare and precious background of acidity.

The dried-mango and pineapple character is so delicious in this wine. It’s full-bodied and medium-sweet, with a pretty density and a fruity finish. Wonderful balance to this super Sauternes. This is a little in reserve now, with so much for the future.

In 2013 only 2500 cases will be made (half the production of the last few abundant years and a fraction of the production of Ch. d’Yquem), but the final blend is not decided until early summer. Each barrel shows its individual character, but all had in common an energy, focus, persistence, depth and precision that makes this one of the wines of the vintage. The ethereal quality that I consider the hallmark of a great Climens was already noticeable as was an intense perfumed fragrance, which is the hallmark of the 2013 vintage. 2013 Climens is a jewel in the making and though its subtle elegance will make this approachable young, it has decades of ageing and evolving ahead.