Precision, strength and freshness are words that form the signature of Brocard's winemaking philosophy. The domain is among the most important of Chablis. Brocard wines represent the higher end of expression at each quality level. The Chablis Grand Cru Valmur forms a valley which offers subtle variations in terms of exposure: one part faces northwest and the other the south. With a well-balanced mineral character, the Valmur is imposing through its strength and surprising fruitiness. The wine comprises of 100% Grand Cru chardonnay, aged in old French oak for 14 months. A multitude of flavours can be discovered, including lemon, pepper, brioche, licorice and toast with mineral strength underpinning all.

Agrapart Terroirs Blanc de Blanc is produced from only great sites and is 100% grand cru. The fruit comes from four villages in the Côte des Blancs: Avize, Cramant, Oger, and Oiry. The vines average 40 years old, and Agrapart uses 50% reserve wine and 50

The house of Besserat de Bellefon was founded in 1843 near Ay in Champagne, and is now based in Epernay. The hallmark of the house is the lower than normal pressure that the wine is kept at under cork. This lower than normal pressure does not reduce the effervescence, but softens it, allowing the wine to partner better with food. The Blanc de Blancs - delicate and subtle citrus displaying a pure form of elegance. Aspect: Vivid, yellow, pure, brilliant Bouquet: Airy, acacia blossom, sea brine Palate: Tense, chalky, chiselled, vital, precise Assemblage : Chardonnay

Gary Farr is still one of Victoria's true Chardonnay maestro's and his Chardonnay By Farr is another example. Taken from the original By Farr vineyard, this is a clearly a wine of true clarity and finesse. Flavours of melon and hints of spice with wonderful oak integration mean this wine is simply delicious upon release, but handle some careful medium-term cellaring.

Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay displays an initial bouquet of slate and wet stone, with nuances of lightly roasted almonds. Subtle hints of citrus, shrouded by nectarine and nashi pear fruits. On the palate, a spiced multi-citrus compote with a very delicate acidity. Balanced and will develop exceptionally well with cellaring.

Felton Road Block 2 Chardonnay comes from a special parcel in the Elms vineyard on a gentle east facing slope, schist gravel soils and Felton Road's oldest Chardonnay vines. With natural hands on winemaking, results in a wine that expresses a true sense of place.

Is this Australia's best Chardonnay? If not then it shares the rarified air reserved for only the finest examples. Rich yet restrained, with mineral notes, cashew and almond meal, amazing fruit complexity and wonderful length...why not try the benchmark?

PIERRE-YVES COLIN-MOREY, Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune blanc