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Pale, straw colour with insinuations of green. Overt, ripe varietal fruit characters on the nose - pineapple, citrus and nectarine derived are from the warm vintage conditions. Mineral characters, orange blossom and almond meal along with some lees derived creaminess are all balanced within this multi-dimensional palate.

Giant Steps is a complex Pinot Noir with terrific varietal character. The nose shows rose petal, dark cherry and tomato leaf aromas and the palate is fleshy but tight, with savoury, dusty notes and silky tannins.

This 20ha vineyard was planted on red clay loam soil at Woori Yallock in 2001 by Lou Primavera, with whom Giant Steps has a long-standing grape-supply relationship. Pinot Noir (114, MV6 and G8V3 clones) grown here on the north and north east facing slopes at 230m is noted for its complex structure and pronounced perfume. The 114 and MV6 are fermented as whole bunches in open vats, while the G8V3 is destemmed, given a long cold-soak and fermented separately to enhance its aromatic contribution. All ferments use indigenous yeasts and the whole-bunch components are periodically foot-stomped to release additional juice. The wines are pressed to 228 litre, French barriques (about 8% new) for 11 months before blending and bottling without fining or filtration.

Shiraz By Farr is one of Victoria's premier cool-climate Shiraz's, made by the iconic Geelong winemaker, Gary Farr. The nose is incredibly complex showing notes of red and black fruits, spice, black pepper and iodine. In the mouth the wine is incredibly fresh. Wonderfully braced fruit and fine framing tannins and an outstanding length.

Gary Farr is Victorian wine royalty and is now making his By Farr wines in collaboration with his son, Nick. The results have been wines of utmost pedigree and character and this Viognier is no exception. While retaining the trademark complexity and palate texture, this Viognier has a wonderful floral lift and aromatic nature to it that makes it undeniably appealing to drink young.

As often happens with Calvert, the nose when young is slightly muted and more direct than exotic; pure and fine aromas, not bold and lush. The palate follows on accordingly, with clarity of fruit, roses and florals. Focussed, concentrated yet pure in the mid-palate, with its hallmark mineral texture, its firm but ultimately juicy on the finish. The vines are growing up and were seeing the puppy-fat turn to muscle.

A classic Fromm Vineyard Pinot Noir, a multi-layered wine, very concentrated without appearing big or heavy, with positive tannin support. At its best it shows a masculine charm with a distinct terroir-related identity, aging superbly.

Stonier are the pioneers of the premium region that is the Mornington Peninsula. This outstanding Pinot Noir displays pure elegance and complexity. Dark cherry fruit flavours are balanced by gamey undertones and a savoury finish.

WILLIAM DOWNIE Bull Swamp Pinot Noir, Baw Baw Shire