Chateau Canon shows no shy and retiring character in 2010, set to a naturally ripe and high 15% alcohol. Though power and density is a motif in 2010, there is a surprising suppleness in this wine, born from central St-Emillion vineyards and the same family of wine as Chateau Rauzan-Segla of Margaux. Almost evenly split between Merlot and Cabernet Franc usually, it''s three quarters Merlot in 2010; the wine matures in oak barrel for 18 months, with around 70% of those offering new wood character. While dense and compact, there is a succulence to the wine that suggests cellaring to two decades would be apt.
Named for the fourth century Latin poet Ausonius, Chateau Ausone sources from a mere 7.3 hectares of vines, set in the south of Saint Emilion. The fortunes of Ausone waned in the mid twentieth century, but have been revitalised by property manager Pascal Delbeck who has helped reestablish the reputation of the famed house. Renowned consultant winemaker Michel Rolland guides the Vauthier estate flagship to near perfection in 2010; the Merlot and Cabernet Franc blend showing density, richness and profound structure, that suggests time in cellar is not only essential for its first ten years, but likely a benefit for another forty years further..
Chateau Beychevelle is a 4th Growth producer known for wines of intensity, depth and brooding nature. The 2010 continues this line but with a suppleness born of the vintage. The estate is set in the very south of the St-Julien appellation and can be some of the more powerful, concentrated wines of the region. Wines spend around 18 months in about 50% new oak for distinction and character. Though having historical ties to aristocracy of France, the current owners of this fine estate are Grands Mill?simesde France. Expect youthful drinking in the next five years and cellar up to 20.
Chateau Cheval Blanc is without doubt, the finest estate in St Emillion, and regarded as one of the greatest Bordeaux wines of modern times. Set next to Pomerol, the estate is set on a unique soil profile that meshes clay, sand and gravel over a bed of rock. Winegrower Pierre Lurton is regarded as one of the most highly skilled in Frane, and the wines are highly collectable and of extreme quality. The 2010 harvest is 54% Cabernet Franc and 46% Merlot, and regarded as one of the greatest releases of all time - a classic that will cellar for half a century, and duly showcase the complexity, luxury and textural experience possible from such a very fine wine.
In the upper echelon of 2nd Growth estates, Chateau Cos D''Estournel is located in St-Estephe appelltion, on the fringe of Paulliac and notably just north of the famed Lafite vineyards. Tourists flock to the Medoc estate to see the unusual, Asian-inspired Chateau design, but the wines hold their own and rightfully are considered the finest within St-Estephe. Oak is set to around 80% new barrels while alcohol is a modest 14.5%; the blend in 2010 is 78% Cabernet Sauvignon with 19% Merlot and complimentary Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in tow. A wine for thirty or so years.
Chateau Leoville-Poyferre''s reputation as a 2nd growth of note has been buoyed by the engagement of renowned consultant winemaker Michel Rolland, whose work has been an influence at the estate since the mid 1990s. Prior, the reputation had struggled until the 1970s and the arrival of Didier Cuvelier, whose labour has helped create a greater reputation, more befitting the Leoville name. The wine has increasingly become one of the finest modern examples of St-Julien, with a move towards later harvests, fuller body, deeper concentration and exceptional length of flavour. 2010 reinforces that Chateau Leoville-Poyferre is a St-Julien wine to relish and cellar for up to and beyond another 30-plus years.
Tasted blind at the 2012 Southwold tasting, the 2012 Ausone took more time to settle in the glass than its peers, eventually deciding upon briary, violet and cassis scentsvery floral and Margaux-like in style, not powerful but insistent. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, a crisp line of acidity, blackcurrant pastille mixed with cedar and a dash of spice, the wine finally revving up towards an intense and persistent finish that almost stains the mouth with its opulence. It is a gorgeous Saint Emilion from Pauline and Alain Vauthier. Tasted January 2016. - Rober Parker Jr