Grapes for this fine Gran Reserva were taken from 30 to 60 year old vines grown at 400 metres above sea level – key to the wine’s elegance, richness and complexity. Matured in French and American oak to lend subtle spice notes, this fine Gran Reserva makes a delicious partner to game or lamb. Best to decant early.

As Robert Parker says, “Spain leads the world for sensational wine bargains of character and soul”, none more so than its mature reds. Nowhere else produces mellow, barrel-aged wines of such remarkable quality and price. Take Palacio del Conde – a gorgeously complex, oaky 2015 from Valencia. Part of this region is close to the coast, while the more southerly part is inland, up in the hills, and dry. It’s there that winemaker Marta Martínez selects the finest, hand harvested – from 50 year old vines – Tempranillo grapes for this Gran Reserva, then ages the wine for three years in oak barrels. A wonderfully fragrant, silky red with mature redcurrant and strawberry fruit and a rich, toasty character. Sublime with roast lamb or tapas. Its three recent Gold wins show its drinking beautifully now.

The Silver Route (named after La Ruta Via de la Plata) is a very appealing red from Extremadura in western Spain. This frontier region is the size of Switzerland, yet has just a million inhabitants. It also has an abundance of cork trees, oaks, black Iberian pigs, and old vines, the age of which ensures intense, ripe, juicy wines. And that’s what you’ll enjoy here. Vibrant, strawberry rich Tempranillo, turbo charged with peppery, black, brambly Syrah, with that concentration only sun-baked, low yielding, old vines deliver. Delicious proof that “the most exciting aspect of modern Spain is not what is new, but what is old: ancient vines in undiscovered places” (FT Weekend). Lovely on its own, even better with barbecued kebabs or Spanish ham.

Another step on the pioneering path for Margan, this is a field blend with the three varieties vinified together each year. The grapes are from Margan's Timbervines vineyard, planted to red volcanic soils and covers a tiny 2 hectares. There’s a lovely plushness to this red, with forest berries, violets and dark chocolate notes singing together. Soft tannins and that trademark refreshing acidity in place. A revelation.

Everyone loves good Rioja. Now take a step up to Reserva level. This is from the 2012 vintage, officially classified as ‘very good’. It was aged for at least a year in barrel and two in bottle to produce a Rioja of perfect balance and depth. Pagos de Tahola comes from the Chavarri family – Francisco and daughter Ruth form a winning partnership with winemaker Miguel Lopez Nuñez. Their exemplary wines are based on exuberant fruit harvested from mature vines in some of Rioja’s highest vineyards then infused with the signature fragrance of quality French and US oak. Rich aromas of dried berries and vanilla, hallmark red berry and sweet spice flavours and silky texture – impressively smooth. Serve with Spanish style rice dishes or grilled meats.