For the Marauding Vintners, real wine is not a commodity, but an expression of people, place and time, where art and nature merge. They know the real deal is often found off the beaten track, and devote time to tracking down the genuine characters. Lady Chardonnay is quite the actress. Born, it's said, from a liaison between a French aristocrat and an uncultivated 'peasant'. She appears the world over in many guises, winning rave reviews in Burgundy, Champagne and select Aussie venues – appearing luscious and well-rounded where the sun shines most, lean and elegant in cooler climes. You'll adore the fresh, modern, beautifully balanced performance she gives here.

Rowlee’s vineyard was planted over 20 years ago by Nik and Deonne Samodol in the high-elevation (950m) cool climate of Orange. Their daughter, Nicole Samodol, and her partner James Manny ‘combine European wine growing heritage with New World practices. This Chardonnay has subtle lemon and grapefruit citrus with underlying nougat and cashew notes.

On an estate vineyard in Wrattonbully South Australia, two sisters are producing wines which are winning hearts, palates and awards around the world. Named after the morning ritual of assembling their eight children "at the gate" in time for the school bus.This lightly oaked white was 1/3 pressed directly into new French oak for a wild yeast and a malolactic fermentation, the remaining 2/3 given a cool slow ferment and no malolactic.The blending of the traditional barrel techniques and the varietal characters maintained have created a wine that is rich in balance and structure.

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Multi Trophy-winning Sam Trimboli must be one of the country's most in-demand winemakers. But after 30-odd years working for other wineries, he took the big step of setting up on his own in 2018 – and, being an old friend of ours, we backed him every step of the way. In return, Sam creates some excellent wines just for us, most have become bestsellers. We suspect this cracking Chardonnay will shortly join them.