The fall of communism in Hungary saw many new beginnings, and one of note for wine lovers was the formation of The Royal Tokaji Company by wine-writer Hugh Johnson, and a consortium of foreign investors with the sole vision of revitalising the magnificent sweet wines of Hungary. The Royal Tokaji Company today is a benchmark for the noble wines of the region, from their 3 Puttonyos wines at around 60-90 grams per litre of residual sugar through to the intense Essencia at 450-850 grams, they are wines that offer the drinker a unique insight to one of the great wine styles of the world. Harvest was the earliest in living memory and probably the earliest ever, providing good volumes of healthy, ripe grapes with firm acidity and excellent quality. The warm, dry autumn was more conducive to drying the grapes than to botrytis, but nevertheless we managed to pick a very satisfactory amount of fine quality Aszú berries, a generous proportion of which are included in this blend. Overall, a record-breaking and outstanding vintage, ripe, rich, and balanced. The grapes were harvested in October and at the beginning of November. After pressing, the settled juice was fermented in tanks and then the majority of the blend was transferred to barrels for five to six months ageing. Bottled at 108 grams of residual sugar per litre. Pale gold colour with delicate citrus and spicy aromas. Light and refreshing on the palate with hints of white peach and honey. It has an excellent acid balance, a smooth, silky texture and a clean, long, crisp finish.

Whole bunch pressing, wild ferment in new French oak have come together in spectacular fashion. This Indigo Chardonnay by Brokenwood was fermented in 30% new French oak and the balance older, from a variety of cooperages. A fine textured palate with bright lime/citrus acidity. Modern Australian Chardonnay at its best.

Pierrick Laroche, the proud owner of Domaine des Hâtes, continues the legacy of his family's estate located in the picturesque village of Maligny, in the north-west sector of Chablis. Established by his father in the 1970s, Pierrick's family vineyard holdings have gradually expanded over time, resulting in the current size of around 33 hectares. After obtaining a degree in oenology from Beaune, Pierrick embarked on a journey to gain valuable experience by traveling the world and undertaking various internships. Armed with knowledge and a deep passion for winemaking, he returned home to take over the family vineyards and start producing his own wines. Pierrick's cellars, ingeniously built into the side of a hill in the village, allow for much of the winemaking process to be conducted by gravity ensuring gentle handling of the grapes. The vinification takes place traditionally in stainless steel tanks, while some of the Premier and Grand Cru wines undergo a small portion of aging in used barrels, allowing for a full malolactic fermentation. One of his oldest vineyard plots, Les Châtillons, planted in the early 1970s, sits just behind the hill of the Grand Crus and showcases the meticulous use of barrel aging, which adds complexity and depth to the cuvée. In 2016, Pierrick expanded his range by starting a small négoce operation, sourcing must from friends who predominantly farm on the left side of the river. This addition includes premier crus such as Beauroy, Beauregard and Vau de Vey, as well as the grand cru of Bougros. In 2019, Pierrick inherited 8 acres of vines from his father-in-law in the southern sector of Chablis, around the village of Courgis. This inheritance includes Petit Chablis, 5.5 acres of Chablis and just over half an acre of the premier cru Les Butteaux. Pierrick Laroche's dedication to his craft is evident in every bottle of wine he produces. With a perfect blend of tradition and innovation, his wines showcase the unique terroir of Chablis, captivating enthusiasts with their finesse, complexity and distinct character. As Pierrick continues to nurture and expand his vineyards, he upholds the family legacy while leaving his own mark on the world of Chablis winemaking. The name of Pierrick's Domaine, "hâtes" refers to an old agricultural unit of measure, similar to the English rod. It evokes the long and slender fields used for sowing, where the longer rows made plowing easier with fewer turns. The term "hâtes" was often used to describe such fields. Produced from vines around 30 year age which are not owned by the domaine but from a producer who is a friend of Pierrick. Premier cru Beauroy has a cooler more north and eastern exposition facing Fourchaume on the other side of the Serein river giving wines which are typically finer and more mineral than those from Fourchaume which mostly faces south-west often yielding riper wines. This wine is raised in stainless steel and shows notable precision and detail finishing with real persistence and a finely chiselled structure. The Maison des Hâtes Pierrick Laroche Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy 2022 is an elegant wine that exemplifies the exceptional quality of the Beauroy Premier Cru vineyard in Chablis. Crafted by Pierrick Laroche, this wine reflects his dedication to producing top-notch Chablis. On the nose, this wine offers enticing aromas of citrus, white flowers and a hint of minerality, showcasing the unique characteristics of the Premier Cru terroir. The palate is treated to a harmonious blend of flavors, with crisp citrus notes, ripe orchard fruits and a subtle saline quality that adds depth and complexity. The wine's vibrant acidity provides a refreshing backbone, while the well-integrated oak influence adds a touch of elegance. The 2022 vintage of Maison des Hâtes Pierrick Laroche Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy is characterized by its excellent structure and balance, indicating its potential for aging. While enjoyable now, this wine has the capacity to develop further complexity and depth over the next several years.

Rich, creamy and quite concentrated chardonnay with peach, hazelnut, bran biscuit and savoury, nutty yeast lees flavours. A seamless and satisfying wine that is deliciously approachable now but promises to age well. Alcohol: 13%. Closure: screwcap. Drink: 2019-2024. Rating: 95/100.